8/23/2025-8/24/2025 The Drop Creek approach is a method for accessing Formidable and the Ptarmigan Traverse that has been gaining in popularity in recent years. It avoids glacier travel, making it a nice alternative to the traditional approach from Cascade Pass in late season. Plus, there has been some recent maintenance on the South Fork Cascade River trailhead that has made this approach arguably the most pleasant it has been in years. Huge thanks to the people who have bee

7/4/2024 - 7/5/2024 I have been climbing mountains in the Cascades for my entire life but somehow had never attempted Mount Rainier. That changed when our friend Rio texted saying he had a permit for Camp Muir – this was the perfect chance to finally have a go at the iconic tallest peak in Washington State.  Paradise to Camp Muir Our permit was for multiple nights, which would give us some additional wiggle room in our schedule to play with should we need it. A warming period

8/21/2022 Tomyhoi Peak is great Type 1 fun trip off the Mount Baker Highway. Eric and I started from the Yellow Aster Butte Trailhead at a reasonable 7:45 am. I had heard that Yellow Aster Butte was a nice hike, especially with fall colors popping, and I’d always wanted to check it out. We hiked up in a thick, weirdly humid, mist that was forecasted to burn off steadily throughout the day. It wasn’t long before we were bursting out of the woods and into beautiful meadows. We

7/9/2022 Keyes Peak was a long time coming for me. I had been drawn to it since my first of many trips to Blanca Lake years ago. It also helped that it was the highest point of the Monte Cristo Range, and views down to Blanca and the surrounding area were sure to be spectacular. There is no way around the fact that Keyes is a long day. The stats are big, and travel on the ridge above Virgin Lake is often slow. I’ve heard of parties completely underestimating this peak and hav

2/13/2022 Katie, Marissa, and I made the long drive down from Seattle on Saturday evening with nervous anticipation for what was bound to be a fun but challenging adventure the following day. I always seem to forget how far south you need to drive to get to the St. Helen’s climbing routes. We eventually pulled into the Marble Mountain Sno-Park at around 10 pm. The road was perfectly dry and clear all the way to the lot (FYI you need a Sno-Parks Permit to park here in the win

5/15/2021 Ross Lake and Hozomeen from high on Ruby This trip began with a bit of indecision. To bring skis or not to bring skis, that was the question. I had my splitboard in my car for another ski trip at Washington Pass, but I just wasn’t sure if it was worth it to carry it for this trip. After a night in the back of my car at a pullout on the side of Highway 20, I set off up the Happy Creek trail without the splitboard. I reasoned that the snow level would be too high, an

8/8/2020-8/9/2020 Fern, Erik, and I set out to bag two more Bulgers in the beautiful part of the world that is the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Chiwawa and Fortress were on the menu this time. I had already been up Chiwawa once before, but we were interested in linking them with a big loop, hitting Chiwawa first, then carrying our gear up and over Fortress and back down the Buck Creek Valley. We got started from the familiar Trinity trailhead at around 9:30. The weather was overc

8/1/2020 - 8/2/2020 Snowfield Peak is a great glacier climb in the heart of the North Cascades. I was excited for my second ascent of the mountain, this time with Katie. Our journey started at the Pyramid Lake trailhead, which is just a pullout on the side of the North Cascades Highway before Diablo Lake. The trail up to the lake is moderately graded, and I’m always surprised by how dry the forest seems close to the highway. Our packs were heavy with glacier and overnight g

7/30/2020 Sloan Peak is called the Matterhorn of the Cascades. It is obvious why when viewed from a variety of different angles throughout the range. Its sheer cliffs make it hard to believe there is a scramble route, but there is! The corkscrew route is aptly named, winding its way almost entirely around the precipitous summit. All these reasons make Sloan an appealing climb, so I jumped on the opportunity to go when Fern suggested it. This would be worth a "sick" day from w

7/4/2020 - 7/6/2020 Big plans came together for an amazing mountain experience over the Fourth of July weekend. The Inspiration Traverse is a super beautiful, rugged traverse over some of the most glaciated terrain in the lower 48. Our plan was to get out and see some of it in an out and back fashion. We would not be completing the entirety of the traverse but would still get to see some of the most beautiful sights in the state. Our trip started on a not-so-glamorous note w

6/22/2020 - 6/23/2020 One of the most amazing parts of living in Washington state is to be bored one day and have the option to decide to go sleep on top of a glaciated mountain on a whim. This trip to Ruth Mountain was very last minute. Katie had just “learned the ropes” of glacier travel and we wanted to test out some of her new skills on a relatively safe glacier. We settled upon Ruth Mountain but weren’t sure when this trip might happen. I was checking the weather one da

6/1/2019 - 6/2/2019 What better place to try out a new splitboard than the summit of a stratovolcano? Baker is one of the most recognizable and striking summits in Washington, towering above its surroundings in the northwestern part of the state – only about 30 miles due east of the city of Bellingham. It is home to many glaciers, and the Mount Baker Ski area holds the world record for snowfall in a year at 1,140 inches! Needless to say, this one had to be climbed. Fern and

8/17/2018 The Pickets hold a special place in the lore of the North Cascades. They are ultra-remote, rugged and wild, and are guarded on all sides by deep, densely wooded valleys. Ever since our trip to Luna Peak a year prior, Fern and I had been hoping to make a return trip to the range. McMillan Spires reflection on a slightly hazy day We concocted a (perhaps foolish) plan to climb West McMillan Spire, the only non-technical summit in the southern Pickets, in a day. Althoug

7/28/2018 I have had a mild obsession with Mount Shuksan for as long as I can remember. It is a Pacific Northwest icon and is a perfect example of the ruggedness of the North Cascades. I love how it towers above the Mount Baker ski area and how its glaciers pour off it. When the opportunity arose to climb it, I jumped at the opportunity. Fern, Erik and I decided on the fun and varied route called the Fisher Chimneys. It is a bit more challenging than the standard Sulphide G

7/14/2018 - 7/16/2018 Fern and I had talked about sleeping on top of a volcano for years, and the opportunity finally presented itself in July of 2018. He had been dealing with a stomach bug for a while and hadn’t eaten a proper meal in days but was finally feeling better and said he was good to go despite the calorie deficit. What a hero climbing partner! The weather forecast was looking HOT (at least in the Puget Sound area) and was going to be clear and sunny in the mounta