

Sawtooth Slam
9/21/2021 - 9/23/2021 With some weekdays available and a decent weather forecast, Katie and I headed out to the Chelan Sawtooths for some peakbagging, larch viewing and lake camping. This area is a long drive from Seattle but is always so worth the trip. Our adventure began with a night in the car at Crater Creek Trailhead. The gravel road up to the trailhead was in great shape for us and was a breeze to drive at night. After a good night’s sleep, we packed our overnight ge
Sep 22, 2021


High Pass and Buck Mountain
9/14/2021 - 9/16/2021 Glacier Peak with peak fall foliage...what a combo! A mid-September venture into the Glacier Peak Wilderness was on the schedule and we couldn’t be more excited. This trip promised meadows, big mountain views and plenty of fall color. Katie and I made the drive out to Trinity and got started up the Buck Creek Trail at around 2 pm. Our only goal for the first day was to get a few miles up the trail and find a good place to camp. The weather was misty and
Sep 16, 2021


Gunn Peak
9/7/2021 With another great September day on our hands, Fern, Isabel and I headed out in search of Gunn Peak (or the infinity tarn if we were being honest with our priorities) in the Wild Sky Wilderness. Gunn is one of the steep, pointy summits you can see on highway 2 driving into Sultan and is actually the high point of the wilderness, so I was very excited about this one. The climbers path trailhead is very non-descript. We located a narrow gravel spur off the main road n
Sep 6, 2021


Desolation Peak
7/27/2021 - 7/28/2021 Desolation Peak is a worthy destination not only because of its unique approach and incredible scenery, but also because of the historical interest of the fire lookout that sits on its summit. The mountain resides directly above Ross Lake on its east side in the shadow of the imposing cliffs of Hozomeen Mountain to its north. It can be approached via a long walk on the East Bank trail from Highway 20, but most people opt to take the Ross Lake Resort wate
Jul 26, 2021


Ruby Mountain via Winter Route
5/15/2021 Ross Lake and Hozomeen from high on Ruby This trip began with a bit of indecision. To bring skis or not to bring skis, that was the question. I had my splitboard in my car for another ski trip at Washington Pass, but I just wasn’t sure if it was worth it to carry it for this trip. After a night in the back of my car at a pullout on the side of Highway 20, I set off up the Happy Creek trail without the splitboard. I reasoned that the snow level would be too high, an
May 14, 2021


Chelan Sawtooths Peakbagging
10/2/2020 - 10/4/2020 With resplendent larches, rugged granite peaks, and a fraction of the crowds of the Enchantments, the Chelan Sawtooths are a great alternative to some of the more popular larch havens in Washington State. Katie, my dad, and I planned to spend a few days camping, summitting some peaks, and appreciating the golden fall color. We made the longgg drive from the Seattle area and located the West Fork Buttermilk Trailhead. Evening was already fast approaching,
Oct 3, 2020


Berdeen Lake
9/5/2020 - 9/7/2020 The incredible Berdeen Lake requires a hefty price of admission There are some places in the Cascades that have a near magnetic pull on me. I love looking at maps of the mountains and dreaming of new places to visit and Berdeen Lake was near the top of my list. One look at a satellite image shows a large turquoise lake surrounded by rugged, glaciated peaks like Bacon and Blum. I had to see it with my own eyes! I had concocted a plan for Labor Day Weekend t
Sep 6, 2020


Pasayten Peakbagging
8/27/2020 - 8/30/2020 I had spent precious little time in the Pasayten Wilderness, and it was time to change that. The Pasayten is in the northeast corner of the Cascades and is drier and less glaciated than the rest of the North Cascades that are located further west. This doesn’t mean it is less interesting, necessarily, because the area is still home to many of the tallest mountains in Washington that are unique and rugged in their own right. It is filled with big ridgelin
Aug 27, 2020


Fortress and Chiwawa
8/8/2020-8/9/2020 Fern, Erik, and I set out to bag two more Bulgers in the beautiful part of the world that is the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Chiwawa and Fortress were on the menu this time. I had already been up Chiwawa once before, but we were interested in linking them with a big loop, hitting Chiwawa first, then carrying our gear up and over Fortress and back down the Buck Creek Valley. We got started from the familiar Trinity trailhead at around 9:30. The weather was overc
Aug 7, 2020


Snowfield Peak
8/1/2020 - 8/2/2020 Snowfield Peak is a great glacier climb in the heart of the North Cascades. I was excited for my second ascent of the mountain, this time with Katie. Our journey started at the Pyramid Lake trailhead, which is just a pullout on the side of the North Cascades Highway before Diablo Lake. The trail up to the lake is moderately graded, and I’m always surprised by how dry the forest seems close to the highway. Our packs were heavy with glacier and overnight g
Jul 31, 2020


Sloan Peak
7/30/2020 Sloan Peak is called the Matterhorn of the Cascades. It is obvious why when viewed from a variety of different angles throughout the range. Its sheer cliffs make it hard to believe there is a scramble route, but there is! The corkscrew route is aptly named, winding its way almost entirely around the precipitous summit. All these reasons make Sloan an appealing climb, so I jumped on the opportunity to go when Fern suggested it. This would be worth a "sick" day from w
Jul 29, 2020


Austera Peak via Inspiration Traverse
7/4/2020 - 7/6/2020 Big plans came together for an amazing mountain experience over the Fourth of July weekend. The Inspiration Traverse is a super beautiful, rugged traverse over some of the most glaciated terrain in the lower 48. Our plan was to get out and see some of it in an out and back fashion. We would not be completing the entirety of the traverse but would still get to see some of the most beautiful sights in the state. Our trip started on a not-so-glamorous note w
Jul 5, 2020


Ruth Mountain Summit Bivy
6/22/2020 - 6/23/2020 One of the most amazing parts of living in Washington state is to be bored one day and have the option to decide to go sleep on top of a glaciated mountain on a whim. This trip to Ruth Mountain was very last minute. Katie had just “learned the ropes” of glacier travel and we wanted to test out some of her new skills on a relatively safe glacier. We settled upon Ruth Mountain but weren’t sure when this trip might happen. I was checking the weather one da
Jun 22, 2020


Mesahchie Peak and Katsuk Peak
7/27/2019 - 7/28/2019 The Ragged Ridge is an aptly named, rugged subrange of mountains in the North Cascades that rise sharply above the Fisher Creek Valley. Access to them is inconvenient, to say the least. The peaks are either reached by significant amounts of tedious side-hilling on steep and unforgiving terrain or by bashing your way straight up the valley via thick bushwhacking and steep, loose rock. Fern and I set off with the tentative goal of climbing all 4 Bulgers on
Jul 26, 2019


Tower Mountain and Golden Horn
7/13/2019 - 7/14/2019 As masters of the alpine start, Fern and I got going from Rainy Pass at the impressive hour of 1:30 pm. The vast majority of our hike in would be gentle miles on the PCT, up and over Cutthroat Pass and into the Snowy Lakes basin, so we felt good about just hiking fast and hopefully getting to Golden Horn that evening. Thank goodness for long, summer days! After being stuck behind some slow horses (I didn’t know they were allowed here) we eventually were
Jul 13, 2019


Dumbbell and Greenwood
6/30/2019 I make a pilgrimage to the Phelps Creek Trailhead about once a year. The area is home to some of the biggest peaks in Washington, complete with beautiful meadows, lakes, and larches in the fall. This particular trip was an early season venture into Spider Meadows with the hopes of climbing Dumbbell and Greenwood – Washington's 73rd and 74th tallest mountains respectively. These peaks are in an impressive location, with intimate views of Bonanza and the Fernow group
Jun 29, 2019


Silver Star Mountain via Burgundy Col
6/9/2019 Silver Star Mountain makes its presence known on Highway 20, rising dramatically above the Washington Pass area. It is a big mountain with many rugged sub-peaks including the Wine Spires, which contain Burgundy Spire, known to be one of the hardest mountains to climb in the state. Thankfully for me and Fern, the true summit of Silver Star is not as hard to reach but still presented a fun challenge. There are two options when climbing Silver Star – a quick and dirty a
Jun 8, 2019


Mount Baker via Coleman Deming Route
6/1/2019 - 6/2/2019 What better place to try out a new splitboard than the summit of a stratovolcano? Baker is one of the most recognizable and striking summits in Washington, towering above its surroundings in the northwestern part of the state – only about 30 miles due east of the city of Bellingham. It is home to many glaciers, and the Mount Baker Ski area holds the world record for snowfall in a year at 1,140 inches! Needless to say, this one had to be climbed. Fern and
May 31, 2019


West McMillan Spire
8/17/2018 The Pickets hold a special place in the lore of the North Cascades. They are ultra-remote, rugged and wild, and are guarded on all sides by deep, densely wooded valleys. Ever since our trip to Luna Peak a year prior, Fern and I had been hoping to make a return trip to the range. McMillan Spires reflection on a slightly hazy day We concocted a (perhaps foolish) plan to climb West McMillan Spire, the only non-technical summit in the southern Pickets, in a day. Althoug
Aug 16, 2018


Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys
7/28/2018 I have had a mild obsession with Mount Shuksan for as long as I can remember. It is a Pacific Northwest icon and is a perfect example of the ruggedness of the North Cascades. I love how it towers above the Mount Baker ski area and how its glaciers pour off it. When the opportunity arose to climb it, I jumped at the opportunity. Fern, Erik and I decided on the fun and varied route called the Fisher Chimneys. It is a bit more challenging than the standard Sulphide G
Jul 27, 2018